A Samsung moisture sensor dryer not heating isn’t the same as a specific load drying unevenly or being considerably damp at the end of the cycle. Many components regulate a dryer’s heat. So, what are the reasons for a Samsung moisture sensor dryer not heating, and how do you fix them?
Here’s why your Samsung moisture sensor dryer is not heating and how you can fix it:
- The moisture sensor is dirty or faulty.
- A thermistor is blown or hi-limit trips.
- The electric heating element is bad.
- The gas burner has a defective part.
- The unit has gas or electrical issues.
- The control board has broken relays.
- The motor’s centrifugal switch is bad.
- The membrane switch is not working.
Start your inspection with the parts you think are wrong, like the thermistor or high-limit thermostat if your Samsung dryer doesn’t heat at all. Also, check the moisture sensor if your clothes are damp after a cycle. Read on to fix a Samsung moisture sensor dryer not heating.
1. The Moisture Sensor Is Dirty or Faulty
Samsung dryers with moisture sensors won’t heat or dry effectively if the humidity sensing bars aren’t functioning properly. The moisture sensor has two metal bars in the lint trap or filter case. If these bars are dirty or faulty, they won’t detect humidity or moisture and shut the dryer.
The moisture sensors in Samsung dryers may have the following issues:
- Lint and debris buildup, including fabric softener residue.
- Wiring issues or a bad bar disrupting the electrical circuit.
How To Fix
You can clean and test the moisture sensors.
Here’s a YouTube video on how you should clean the dryer’s moisture sensor (based on Samsung’s recommendations):
You should also inspect the wiring of the moisture sensor to ensure the wires are connected and in good condition. Otherwise, you should replace the wiring too. Note that the moisture sensor bars don’t necessarily come with wires and connectors.
In some Samsung dryers, you can touch the bars with a wet towel and get a code on display. Alternatively, you can use the diagnostic mode to test the moisture sensor.
If a Samsung dryer isn’t heating at all even in manual dry mode, the problem isn’t the moisture sensor.
2. A Thermistor Is Blown or Hi-Limit Trips
Gas and electric Samsung moisture sensor dryers have thermistors and hi-limit thermostats.
The thermistors are essentially thermal fuses or cutoffs. Generally, Samsung dryers have 2 thermistors. If either blows due to overheating from a clogged vent, lint filter, and poor air circulation, your Samsung moisture sensor dryer won’t heat. The drum may work fine, though.
Also, most Samsung dryers have 2 high-limit thermostats — one at the heating element or burner assembly and another on the exhaust chute or duct. If either of these hi-limits trips or is open, a Samsung moisture sensor dryer won’t heat.
How To Fix
You need to test all the thermistors and high-limit thermostats to detect and replace the faulty one(s). Perform a continuity test of these fuses and hi-limits. Remember to remove the wires from the terminals of these heat sensors before conducting a continuity test to get an accurate reading.
3. The Electric Heating Element Is Bad
Samsung electric dryers use a coiled heating element, which can break due to overheating. So if the thermistors and hi-limits are fine, you should test the heating element for continuity. Also, a visual inspection should reveal breaks or cracks if the heating element doesn’t have continuity.
If the heating element has continuity, check the wires and connectors. The wires shouldn’t be frayed or broken. You also shouldn’t find any signs of charring or burning. Ensure the wiring harnesses are snugly fitted to the terminals of the heating element.
How To Fix
You have to replace a bad heating element after testing it for continuity. Additionally, you should test the coil or element’s resistance. A working heating element should have approximately 10 to 50 ohms of resistance. If the resistance reading is too low or high, the heating element isn’t alright.
4. The Gas Burner Has a Defective Part
If you have a Samsung moisture sensor dryer running on gas, check the following parts:
- Burner igniter
- Flame sensor
Should any of these parts fail or don’t work properly, that can be the reason your Samsung moisture sensor dryer is not heating.
How To Fix
Here’s how you can inspect these gas burner assembly parts:
- Check if the burner igniter glows after you start a cycle.
- If the igniter doesn’t glow, test its continuity and inspect the wiring.
- If the igniter glows but the burner has no fire, test the solenoids or valve coils for continuity.
- If the solenoids or coils are fine and make a clicking noise, test the flame sensor since a faulty one shuts the valves.
- Replace any of these burner assembly parts that fail the continuity test.
5. The Unit Has Gas or Electrical Issues
A Samsung gas dryer won’t heat if the shut-off valve is closed. Likewise, an electric dryer won’t heat if the voltage is low or on only one leg of the terminal block, so the heating element has power. In this case, you need to investigate all the likely gas and electrical issues.
How To Fix
Here are the standard solutions for common gas and electrical problems:
- Ensure the gas supply, regulator, or shut-off valve is open.
- Verify that the gas pressure is optimum, especially for propane.
- Test and confirm your electric dryer has 220V to 240V power.
- Check the terminal block for damage if there’s no voltage at any leg.
- Inspect the power cord and the wall receptacle for electrical problems.
- Replace the broken part (terminal block, power cord, receptacle, etc.)
6. The Control Board Has Broken Relays
A Samsung moisture sensor dryer not heating could be due to broken relays on the main control board. But even if the control board relays are fine, the heating element or burner assembly may not get power due to one of the related components failing.
Therefore, you’ll have to rule out other probable issues to ensure that the main electronic control unit is bad — unless you notice signs of damage such as a burned or charred circuit board.
How To Fix
Based on the results of your inspection, you can either replace the relays or the entire control board. You should also inspect the wires and connectors. A charred or burned main control board is usually caused by overheating or a power surge — both of which can damage wires, connectors, and other components of a dryer.
7. The Motor’s Centrifugal Switch Is Bad
The driver motors in Samsung moisture sensor dryers have a centrifugal switch. This switch is activated when the motor runs. If this switch doesn’t activate, the electrical circuit for the heating assembly remains open. So, your dryer won’t heat even if the motor runs and the drum works.
Watch this YouTube video if you’re not familiar with a dryer motor’s centrifugal switch:
How To Fix
The best solution depends on the cause of the problem. For instance, the centrifugal switch may not work if the lever or arm is jammed with lint and debris. Likewise, the switch won’t work if the contacts are corroded, charred, or broken. The motor itself may have an intermittent issue too.
Here are the standard solutions for different problems with a dryer motor’s centrifugal switch:
- Remove lint and other debris from the contacts and lever of the centrifugal switch.
- Use sandpaper, steel wool, or emery paper to clean any rusted or corroded contacts.
- Look for misaligned contacts and lever positions and try to restore their alignments.
- Use needle-nose pliers to gently reshape the contacts and fix the lever position.
- If nothing works, you need a new motor as the centrifugal switch is an integral part.
8. The Membrane Switch Is Not Working
A Samsung moisture sensor dryer not heating could be due to a faulty membrane switch. If the membrane switch is open, the dryer won’t have the control board supplying power to the heating assembly. So, you need to inspect the membrane switch and replace it if it isn’t working.
How To Fix
The membrane switch connects the control panel with all the buttons or touchpad functions to the main board. It’s difficult to diagnose a membrane switch as it’s essentially a circuit board for the control panel options. Therefore, you need a new membrane switch for the specific model.