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Roper Dryer Not Heating? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)

A Roper dryer not heating has a few typical causes unless the unit lacks power and you aren’t using the fluff cycle or no heat mode. Gas and electric Roper dryers have some similar potential issues and a few different problems. So, why is your Roper dryer not heating, and how to fix it?

Here’s why your Roper dryer is not heating:

  • A thermal fuse or thermostat is bad.
  • The electric heating element is broken.
  • The gas burner assembly has a fault.
  • You have electrical or gas problems.
  • The dryer’s control board is defective.

Most of these problems have straightforward solutions, but you must first test the components to detect the actual cause. Additionally, Roper dryers may have more than one faulty part in some cases, so you must consider such a possibility. Keep reading to fix a Roper dryer that is not heating.  

A Thermal Fuse or Thermostat Is Bad

Roper dryers have a set of thermal fuses and thermostats. If any of these sensors is damaged, your dryer won’t heat. 

Generally, gas and electric Roper dryers have the following heat sensors:

  • Thermal cutoff (high limit thermostat)
  • Thermal fuse (the cutoff for exhaust)
  • Burner or heating element thermostat
  • Cycling thermostat (exhaust thermistor)

All four sensors should have continuity and function flawlessly at varying temperatures for your Roper dryer to heat as expected. Often, the thermal cutoff or fuse blows due to overheating. Or one of the two thermostats trip and remain stuck. Thus, the electrical circuit is open or disrupted.

If you don’t have any electrical or gas supply issues, the first step should be inspecting these 4 heat sensors in your Roper dryer. 

Roper gas dryers make a clicking noise as the valve coils open. So, if you set the timer and start the dryer, you should hear a click when one valve coil opens. Then, you will hear another click as the second valve coil is activated. If you don’t hear these sounds, inspect the heat sensors.

In case you hear the clicking sounds but the Roper gas dryer doesn’t heat, you should look at the burner assembly parts that I discuss below. However, if you have a Roper electric dryer, you won’t have such clicking noises to rely on. Therefore, you have to inspect the fuses.

How To Fix

Here’s how you can test and fix a Roper dryer’s thermal fuses and thermostats:

  1. Unplug your Roper dryer from the wall receptacle and pull the unit away from the wall.
  2. Exercise caution if you have a gas dryer so that you don’t extend the pipe too much.
  3. Remove the exhaust duct from the dryer’s vent and get a set of nut drivers and pliers.
  4. You may also use screwdrivers or appropriate parts of a drill to disassemble the dryer.
  5. Remove the screws to take off the rear cover, which is the access panel for the fuses.
  6. After you remove the rear panel, you’ll find two vertical chutes or ducts on either side.
  7. To your left is the blower & exhaust chute, while the heating duct is to your right.
  8. You’ll find 2 heat sensors on the blower or exhaust chute, almost next to the dryer’s vent.
  9. Similarly, you’ll find 2 heat sensors on the heating element or gas burner assembly.
  10. Test all the 4 components using a multimeter set to least resistance or continuity mode.
  11. Remove the wires before you test the terminals for continuity to avoid false readings.
  12. The exhaust thermistor or cycling thermostat near the vent has 4 terminals instead of 2.
  13. You must remove both sets of red and purple wires but test only the outer terminals.
  14. The cycling thermostat’s outer terminals are for high heat, so test these for continuity.
  15. Replace any thermal fuse or thermostat that doesn’t have electrical continuity.    

Normally, the thermal fuse on the blower assembly and the high limit cutoff on the heating duct are likely to fail before the thermostats. Additionally, the cycling thermostat on the exhaust chute isn’t likely to fail before the thermal fuse. So, you may prioritize the fuses when a dryer doesn’t heat. 

The Electric Heating Element Is Broken

Suppose all 4 fuses and thermostats are alright. In that case, you must inspect your Roper dryer’s electric heating element. Of course, this step doesn’t apply to gas dryers. 

If you have removed the rear access panel as explained above, you can access the element’s terminals near the base of the heat duct. Remove the wire harnesses from the terminals and conduct a continuity test. You may also use the multimeter to test the element’s resistance.

A good heating element must have electrical continuity. Plus, it should have some resistance. If you don’t find continuity, the resistance test is a nonstarter. Thus, you must replace the heating element. However, you may find continuity and resistance. Still, the element may not work well.

An electric Roper dryer’s heating element isn’t invincible. The coiled material can crack, develop blisters, deform, and deteriorate to the extent that it won’t generate the required heat. In this case, your dryer won’t heat up, even if the element glows dimly.    

How To Fix

The only solution for a bad heating element is to replace it. Match the part number so that you get the correct heating element assembly. The entire assembly should perfectly fit your Roper electric dryer model. Also, you may want to take a picture of all the wires for easy reinstallation. 

The Gas Burner Assembly Has a Fault

Suppose all the fuses and thermostats are fine in your Roper gas dryer. In that case, inspect the gas burner assembly, which includes the following parts:

  • Igniter
  • Flame sensor
  • Valve solenoids

You can turn on the dryer and set it to heat. Then, check through the viewing hole in the front cover if the igniter is glowing. A glowing igniter failing to light the fire implies a defective valve solenoid or flame sensor. I’m presuming that the gas supply valve or regulator isn’t shut. 

How To Fix

You need to test the igniter, flame sensor, and solenoids for continuity and short. Plus, an igniter should have some resistance, typically around 50 to a few hundred ohms. So, take apart your Roper dryer to access and test these parts.

Unlike the heating element assembly at the back, the gas burner parts are at the bottom-left of Roper dryers, which you need to access from the front. Additionally, since many Roper gas dryers do not have a kickplate, you have to take off the entire front cover, including the door assembly. 

You must replace the gas valve solenoids, flame sensor, or igniter based on your tests.

You Have Electrical or Gas Problems

Roper dryers are occasionally prone to a few electrical or gas problems, many of which are not the unit’s fault.

Here are some common issues you should investigate:

  • Loose, frayed or broken wires and harnesses
  • Burnt or damaged terminal block and power cable
  • Low voltage or power fluctuations for electric dryers
  • Low pressure or no supply for Roper gas dryers
  • Improper electrical circuit and breaker or fuse

How To Fix

Here are the steps to fix the common electrical and gas problems:

  • Replace damaged wires and ensure all the connections are snug.
  • Get a new terminal block if the one on your Roper dryer is broken.
  • Change the power cable if it is damaged, burnt, or frayed anywhere.
  • Test the voltage at the wall receptacle and Roper dryer terminals.
  • The legs should measure ~120V for gas and ~240V for electric dryers.
  • Verify if your gas pressure is optimum, especially if you use propane.
  • Use a time-delay fuse or circuit breaker rated for 20A (gas) and min. 30A (electric).

The Dryer’s Control Board Is Defective

A defective control board can be the cause of your Roper dryer not heating. However, check all the above issues before suspecting the control board, especially when the dryer runs but won’t heat. You should also check the timer because a broken one may prevent your Roper dryer from heating.

How To Fix

Select one of the following fixes based on your findings:

  • Replace the control board if it looks charred, burnt, or damaged.
  • Get new relays if you can repair a defective control board or call a technician.
  • Inspect all the timer’s terminals for continuity and repair or replace the part if it is bad.

Author

  • Chris Hewitt

    Chris is a Texas-based freelance writer who loves the outdoors and working in his garage. When he's not enjoying the Texas sun, he can be found tinkering with all sorts of things in his workshop.

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