A pool pump that is not pulling water cannot provide normal filtration and circulation. Stop the pump if it is running dry, keep swimmers out while the circulation system is not operating, and check water chemistry before reopening the pool.
Safety first: Before opening a pump, filter, valve, union, or motor housing, stop the pump, disable automation, switch off power at the circuit breaker, and relieve all filter pressure through the manual air-relief valve while standing clear. Wait for the pressure gauge to read zero. Follow the manual for your exact equipment. Electrical, motor, underground-line, and pressurized-system repairs should be handled by a qualified pool professional or licensed electrician.
Your pool pump isn’t pulling water for at least one of these reasons:
- The filter is dirty
- Air in the plumbing
- Jammed check valve
- Clogged plumbing
- Debris in the baskets
- The pump isn’t primed
- Broken impeller
- Incorrect valve orientation
- Faulty pump motor
This guide covers common causes and low-risk checks. It cannot diagnose every installation remotely; stop and call a professional if you find damaged wiring, water near electrical equipment, a cracked filter or housing, an unknown valve layout, or a pump that will not prime within the limit in its manual.

1. The Filter Is Dirty
A dirty filter restricts flow and can raise the filter pressure. However, low flow at the pump can also come from a suction-side restriction, low water level, air leak, closed valve, or clogged basket.
Use the pressure recorded when the filter was clean as the baseline. Clean the filter when the pressure rise reaches the threshold specified by its manufacturer; many cartridge-filter manuals use about 8–10 PSI above the clean reading, not a universal absolute pressure.
Do not use 25 PSI as a universal limit. Normal pressure varies by filter, plumbing, pump speed, and installation. Record the clean starting pressure and follow the filter manual. A sudden rise or drop, leaking clamp, damaged tank, or abnormal gauge reading is a reason to stop the system and investigate.
How To Fix
For a cartridge filter that has reached its manufacturer-specified cleaning threshold, use this general sequence and the exact instructions in its manual:
- Stop the pump, disable automatic controls, and switch off the circuit breaker.
- Open the manual air-relief valve while standing clear. Do not loosen a clamp or lid until the gauge reads zero and all pressure is relieved.
- Open the filter only as described in its manual. Remove and rinse the cartridges using the method approved by the manufacturer.
- Inspect the elements, O-ring, clamp, lid, tank, gauge, and air-relief assembly. Replace damaged parts with the specified parts.
- Reassemble the filter exactly as instructed. Never substitute a clamp or fastener, and do not operate a cracked or improperly closed filter.
- Restart according to the manual with the air-relief valve open and stand clear until a steady stream of water appears; then close the valve.
If you have a sand or DE filter, you can review this helpful YouTube video:
2. Air in the Plumbing
Air in the system will slow the priming process. If your pump can’t prime, it won’t be able to circulate the water.
A good way to know if there’s air in the system is to open the air relief valve on top of the filter. If air keeps flowing out without any water, check out the solutions below to get the air out of the lines before it’s too late.
How To Fix
To get rid of the air in your plumbing, try these tips and tricks:
- Replace all broken or worn O-rings and gaskets. Worn O-rings and gaskets let airflow into the system and cause air bubbles to push out the water. Always get the correct part number from the manufacturer rather than guessing the right size.
- Inspect lids, drain plugs, and suction-side unions. A loose fitting or damaged seal on the suction side can draw air without visibly leaking water. Hand-tighten only as the manufacturer directs; overtightening can damage plastic parts.
- Keep the water above the skimmer basket at all times. Evaporation happens quickly in the hot summer months. Air gets into the pipes once the water level drops below the highest inlet, which is almost always the skimmer.
3. Jammed Check Valve
If the pump basket is not filling, a closed, stuck, or incorrectly installed check valve may be restricting the suction line. Check valves are used to prevent reverse flow; their purpose and location vary by system.
However, a jammed check valve stays closed. The closed valve stops the pump’s suction, causing it to hum or grind without moving the water.

How To Fix
If the pump screeches, grinds, or hums without moving water, turn it off immediately. Do not assume the valve is the only cause. After isolating power and relieving pressure, inspect an accessible serviceable valve only if its manufacturer provides a procedure; otherwise use a pool professional.
- Remove the retaining screws on top of the valve’s lid.
- Pull out the internal components, also known as the “valve guts.”
- Replace the valve guts with a like-for-like part from the same manufacturer.
- If necessary, replace the valve’s gasket or O-ring.
- Secure the lid onto the valve with the previously removed screws.
Important: Do not use a generic “away from the pump” rule. Install the valve and internal assembly in the flow direction marked by the manufacturer. On a suction line, permitted flow normally points toward the pump, but the system diagram and valve arrow control.
4. Clogged Plumbing
Clogs are quite common in swimming pools. The plumbing includes unions, pipes, and everything in between. Clogs are caused by a buildup of large debris, especially if there’s a lot of hair or tree debris in the system. This debris can break the plumbing if it’s not removed.
Much like the dirty filter example, plumbing clogs must be dealt with quickly.
How To Fix
Try these clog removal techniques:
- With power off and pressure relieved, clean the skimmer basket, pump strainer basket, and filter according to their manuals.
- Inspect only accessible unions or valves you can positively identify, and restore every seal and valve position exactly.
- Do not apply compressed air, a drain bladder, or a plumbing snake to pool lines unless the equipment manufacturer approves the method. Excess pressure or a tool can damage plumbing and equipment.
- Use a qualified pool technician for underground or persistent blockages.
5. Debris in the Baskets
If your pool pump is not pulling water from the skimmer, there’s probably debris in the pump basket or skimmer basket.
- The skimmer basket holds large debris, such as leaves, sticks, and anything else that can’t get through the small, porous surface.
- The pump basket catches small bits, and the rest goes to the filter.
Dirty, uncleaned baskets can slow the pump drastically.

How To Fix
Inspect and clean the baskets on a schedule suited to the pool’s debris load and after storms. A blocked basket restricts flow; the correct interval may be daily in heavy debris or less often in cleaner conditions.
All you have to do is open the skimmer lid, pull out the basket, and dump the debris. Replace the basket and you’ll be good to go.
To clean the pump basket, stop the pump, disable automation, switch off the breaker, close valves if the manual requires it, relieve filter pressure, and confirm the gauge reads zero. Remove and clean the basket, inspect and lubricate the lid O-ring only with an approved lubricant, then reinstall the lid according to the pump manual.
During restart, follow the manufacturer’s air-relief procedure and stand clear of the filter. Close the relief valve only after a steady stream of water appears.
6. The Pump Isn’t Primed
If the pump strainer pot will not fill, the pump may have lost prime. Priming fills the pump and suction path with water so the pump can move water; it is not a method for setting filter pressure.
If the pump isn’t primed, it won’t be a fraction as useful as it should be. Running a pump that isn’t primed can damage the motor and impeller.
How To Fix
To prime the pool pump, follow these instructions:
- Stop the pump and disconnect power at the breaker. Relieve filter pressure and stand clear.
- Confirm the pool water level is adequate and that required suction and return valves are open.
- Remove the pump lid and fill the strainer pot to the level specified by the pump manual—often up to the suction port. Check that the lid O-ring is clean, undamaged, and correctly seated.
- Reinstall the lid, open the filter air-relief valve, restore power, and start the pump according to its manual while standing clear of the filter.
- Close the relief valve after a steady stream of water appears. If the pump does not prime within the manual’s stated time, stop it and troubleshoot rather than continuing to run it dry. See the pool pump priming guide.
7. Broken Impeller
The motor drives the impeller, which moves water through the pump. Debris, wear, or damage can reduce flow, but the same symptom can also come from air leaks, closed valves, or a suction restriction.
A faulty impeller doesn’t rotate fast enough, so the water won’t move through the pump. You might notice the suction gets gradually weaker until it stops altogether.
How To Fix
Internal pump work varies by model and can expose electrical and mechanical hazards. Use the service manual and a qualified technician. At minimum:
- Stop the pump, disable automation, and disconnect power at the circuit breaker. Verify the pump cannot restart.
- Relieve all system pressure and confirm the gauge reads zero.
- Have the impeller and seal assembly inspected and replaced with the exact manufacturer-specified parts and procedure.
- After reassembly, prime and test the pump according to the manual while checking for leaks and abnormal sound.
8. Incorrect Valve Orientation
Some pool pumps have valves in front and behind them. If the valves aren’t facing the correct direction, they’ll pull water from the wrong source.
For example, you might be pulling water from the spa or vacuum instead of the pool. Some valves can close, which means they don’t pull water from any source.
How To Fix
Make sure every valve is facing the necessary direction. For example, the suction side (in front of the pump) should pull from the skimmer for traditional circulation or the vacuum inlet if you’re using the pool vacuum.
You should also check each of the pressure side valves (behind the pump) to see if they’re going to the heater, spa, solar, or pool.
9. Faulty Pump Motor
If the pump is receiving correct power but the motor will not start, only hums, overheats, trips the breaker, or makes abnormal noise, the motor, capacitor, bearings, impeller, or electrical supply may need diagnosis. Service life varies widely by model, installation, environment, and maintenance.
Grinding can indicate bearing, impeller, or debris problems. A leaking shaft seal can allow water toward the motor. Turn the system off and have it inspected; the correct repair may involve bearings, a seal kit, a motor, or the complete pump depending on the model and damage.

How To Fix
Motor replacement involves mains electricity, bonding, grounding, seals, and model-specific wiring. It should be performed by a qualified pool professional or licensed electrician using the exact replacement motor or manufacturer-approved assembly.
- Keep the pump off until it has been professionally inspected if wiring is damaged, the housing is wet, the breaker trips repeatedly, or the motor only hums.
- After any motor or seal work, the technician should verify bonding, grounding, correct voltage, rotation where applicable, leak-free reassembly, and successful priming.
How Do I Get Water To Flow Through To My Pool Pump?
If you’re trying to get water to flow through the pool pump, your main action should be to remove clogs, trapped air, and jammed components.
Jammed valves, gates, and unions can slow the water flowing through the pump. It’s important to open the valves going into and out of the pump before running it.
If you want to get the water flowing through the pump, make sure there’s no debris in the lines. The checks above cover the filter, pump basket, and skimmer basket. However, sometimes the only thing you can do is hire a pool technician to blow the lines and remove the clogs.

Small cracks in the plumbing will also limit the water pressure. If you notice the pump suddenly lowers its PSI (on the filter’s pressure gauge) despite it running at the same RPMs, there might be a loose O-ring, gasket, union, lid, or a crack in the plumbing. (You can find the fixes for those in the above section.)
That being said, an airlock can cause unique symptoms. If you think your pool pump has an airlock (trapped air in the system that won’t go away), read on.
How Do I Get Rid of an Airlock in My Pool Pump?
Airlocks prevent water from circulating in the pool. These air bubbles push the water out of the pump and filter, which stops the flow. If your pool pump is not filling with water, there might be an airlock.
Here’s what causes an airlock in a swimming pool pump:
- High points or leaks in a suction line can trap or draw air. The correct plumbing layout depends on the pump’s position relative to the water level and the manufacturer’s limits. Have a pool professional evaluate inaccessible or underground suction plumbing.
- Persistent air after priming suggests an unresolved leak, low water level, closed valve, or incomplete priming. Follow the pump and filter restart procedures, including the manual air-relief step, and stop the pump if it cannot establish steady flow.
- Keep the vacuum head and suction hose filled and submerged when connected. An exposed vacuum hose can draw air into the system. Most standard pool pumps are installed dry on the equipment pad—they should not be submerged—but their strainer pot and suction path must contain water during operation as the manual requires.
Intex Pool Pump Not Pulling Water? Here’s What To Do
If your Intex pool pump is running dry, turn it off right away. A pump that runs dry will overheat the motor and damage the bearings.
If that happens, you’ll have to buy a new pump, which is much more expensive than the simple, straightforward fixes below.
So, what should you do if your Intex pool pump isn’t pulling enough water?
- Turn off the pump and follow the exact Intex priming and air-release procedure for the model. Above-ground systems may use gravity-assisted flooding rather than the same sequence as an in-ground self-priming pump. Do not run the unit dry.
- Confirm the pump is approved for the pool and installation. Match the model’s flow, head capability, hose or pipe connections, voltage, filter, and above-ground or in-ground rating. Do not repurpose an above-ground pump for an installation the manufacturer does not approve.
- Remove all of the debris from the hoses and baskets. Intex pool pumps clog quickly because they filter such a small body of water. Above-ground pools don’t have a high gallon total, so they pull all of the debris out of the pool in a few hours. It’s important to remove the debris from the vacuums, hoses, and baskets to ensure the pump works.
- Stop the pump if it screeches, grinds, hums without flow, overheats, or trips protection. Contact the manufacturer or a qualified technician to determine whether the model is serviceable and which replacement assembly is approved.
Above Ground Pool Pump Not Pulling Water? Here’s What To Do
Is your above-ground pool pump having trouble pulling water into the plumbing? Above-ground pools are much easier to repair because nothing is underground. You can access the plumbing without digging a hole, and you don’t have to worry about tree roots and other debris breaking anything that you can’t see.

Here’s why your above-ground pool pump isn’t pulling water:
- The hoses aren’t tight enough. Most above-ground pools have soft, corrugated plumbing hoses. These hoses are flexible, but they’re prone to loosening. Make sure all of the hoses are tightened and pushed all the way into the designated socket.
- Check if the water level is below the highest inlet. Many above-ground pool connections are much higher than you’d expect. If the water sloshes or splashes below the line for a second while the pump is on, it’ll push air into the system. Too much air reduces the pressure and prevents the pump from pulling water.
- Look for holes in the hoses. Above-ground plastic pool hoses can warp and crack from direct sunlight or accidental bumping. Replace each section of the hose that’s broken. Much like a drinking straw, a small hole can make a significant difference in the suction’s performance.
Whether your pool is above or below the ground, too much air in the system will affect its performance. Your pump can’t perform optimally if it’s not filled with water.
Additional Pool Pump Troubleshooting Resources
For other symptoms, see these related pool pump troubleshooting guides:
- Pool Pump Won’t Prime? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)
- Pool Pump Keeps Tripping Breaker? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)
- Pool Pump Leaking? Here’s How To Fix It (Complete Guide)
- Pool Pump Won’t Turn Off? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)
- Pool Pump Won’t Start? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)
- Pool Pump Timer Not Working? Here’s Why (+ How to Fix)
- Pool Pump Keeps Shutting Off? Here’s Why (+ How to Fix)
- Pool Pump Not Circulating Water? Here’s Why (+ How to Fix)
- Pool Pump Overheating? Here’s Why (+ How To Fix)
- Pool Pump Making Loud Noise? Here’s Why (+ How to Fix It)
Sources and Update Notes
This guide was reviewed for equipment safety, troubleshooting scope, and source quality on September 16, 2026. Always use the manual for the exact pump and filter model because valve layout, priming limits, pressure thresholds, and service procedures vary.
